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The most northerly of Patagonia's great national parks, Parque Nacional Lanin was formed in 1937 and protects 3790 square kilometres of Andean and sub-Andean habitat that ranges from barren, semi-arid steppe in the east to patches of temperate Valdivian rainforest pressed up against the Chilean border. To the south, it's joined to its sister park, the even more colossal Nahuel Huapi, while it also shares a boundary with Parque Villarica in Chile. The park has three trademark features. The first is the presence of various Mapuche communities who live in and around the park. The second is its geographical centrepiece - the fabulous cone of Volcan Lanin , rising to 3776m and dominating the scenery around. This volcano, and the central sector of the park around Lagos Huechulafquen, Paimun and Tromen, is best reached from Junin de los Andes . The park's other trump card is a species of tree - the araucaria, or pehuen . Araucarias exist in isolated stands as far south as Lago Curruhue Grande, but are especially prevalent in the northern sector of the park around Quillen, Rucachoroi and Norquinco, and their range extends past the park's northern boundary: an area known as the Pehuenia region . It's not the easiest area of the park to get around, but tourism is less in evidence and it has some excellent treks. Most people gain access to this region via Zapala or Junin. Parque Lanin's lakes drain eastwards, with the exception of Lago Lacar, which drains into the Pacific. This southern sector of the park and the famous Seven Lakes Route through the north of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi towards Villa La Angostura and Bariloche are covered in the section on San Martin de los Andes . San Martin is by far the most scenic of the two principal towns for accessing the park, but is more expensive than its low-key rival, Junin. As well as the araucaria, other species endemic to the region are the roble pellin , with leaves not unlike those of the oak, and the rauli , both types of deciduous Nothofagus southern beech, and often found together. The rauli does not extend much north of Lago Quillen. The park also protects notable forests of coihue , as well as nire, lenga, maniu, radal and, in the drier areas, cypress. Flowers such as the arvejilla purple sweet pea and the introduced lupin abound in spring, as does the abundant, flame-red notro bush. Fuchsia bushes grow in some of the wetter regions. As for fauna, the park reputedly protects a population of huemules , although their status is precarious. You have a very slim chance of seeing a pudu, the tiny native deer, a puma or a gato huina wildcat. Better chances exist of spotting a coipu or a grey fox, but some of the likeliest creatures you'll come across are the ones introduced for hunting a century ago: the wild boar and the red deer that roam the semi-arid steppes and hills of the eastern margin of the park. Involuntarily, the latter species especially makes an important contribution to the local economy, as foreigners and Portenos pay significant sums for shooting rights. A common bird which has been introduced to the region is the California quail; the male of the species has a distinctive frontal plume on its head. One thing worth avoiding is any small black spider: black widows do inhabit the park, although they're not common. The wettest places in the park (over 4000mm rainfall a year) are Anihueraqui at the western end of Lago Quillen and Lago Queni. The park can be covered in snow from May to October, but it can snow in the higher mountain regions at almost any time of year. The best time to visit is in spring (especially Oct-Nov) - or autumn (March to mid-May), when the deciduous trees adopt a spectacular palette, particularly in the Pehuenia area; the contasts of rusts, golds and dark greens is irresistible. Trekking is possible between late October and early May, although the season for some of the higher treks is shorter, usually from December to March. January and February see an influx of Argentine holidaymakers, who come to Lanin to fish and camp, but in general, you've more scope here than in Nahuel Huapi to escape the crowds, even in high season. Take care when camping in forests of mature coihue trees, as the branches have a reputation for breaking off easily in windy weather.
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