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Situated in the northwest corner of Chubut Province, 19km south of El Bolson, the relatively small Parque Nacional Lago Puelo (237 square kilometres) protects the area of rugged mountains, forests and pasture that surrounds the windswept, turquoise lake of the same name. In recent years, several fires in the region have damaged swathes of the native forest, but it still offers some excellent trekking possibilities. A few endangered huemules inhabit the remoter border areas of the park; and some 120 species of birds have been recorded here, including the resident Chilean pigeon ( paloma araucana ), a species that came close to extinction due to disease but whose numbers are now recovering. There are incursions here of several tree species usually found only in Chile, such as the avellano , the olivillo and the ulmo , which flowers in later summer with large white flowers reminiscent of magnolia blooms. The park also protects alerces and groves of the water-loving patagua (or pitra ), a species related to the arrayan . The park can be accessed via either of two routes. A minor access road, 13km long, runs from El Hoyo de Epuyen, just to the south of El Bolson, and reaches the lake at the mouth of the Rio Epuyen, where there is a campsite ($2 per person). This is a good starting point for hikes south, but you'll need first to have visited the Intendencia on the main route. By far the most common access to the park is from El Bolson itself, passing through the Lago Puelo Village , 3.5km north of the lake and outside the park boundary. Certain scheduled bus services from Bariloche and El Bolson only go as far as the village (especially in the winter), so check first. It's $3 in a remise from the village to the park headquarters and pier (tel 02944/499133 or 499068). A plethora of places in the area rent out cabins , of which Puelo Ranch (tel 02944/499234; $90 for four people, $120 for six) and Peuma Hue (tel 1560-3652; $60-80) are recommended. The Hostal del Lago (tel 02944/499199), just outside the park gate, offers straightforward, good-value accommodation $20-30) as well as cheap platos del dia ($4 for gnocchi). Within the park, near the entrance, is the Intendencia (tel 02944/499232, fax 499064), where you should stop for an excellent illustrated pamphlet on key bird species (Spanish only), a map marking authorized campsites, and useful trekking information. You must obtain a (free) permit here for all trekking and camping. Where the road ends at the north end of the lake, you have a choice of campsites : the camping agreste ($2pp) to the right of the pier, or the more developed Camping Lago Puelo (tel 02944/499183; $5 per person) to the left. A little further round the shore from the autocamping is a beach popular with locals in the summer. A new boat service crosses the lake to El Turbio (18km away), which is making it easier to trek in the Rio Turbio area south of the park. At El Turbio there's a park ranger's post, a campsite and hosteria . You could hike along the entire eastern side of the lake if you don't want to take the boat, although the path is poorly marked in places for the first section to Rio Epuyen. From El Turbio, it's possible to make an expedition hike through to Cholila, passing the spectacular ramparts of Cerro Tres Picos or Three Peak Mountain (2492m) beyond the park's southern boundary. Other hiking options from the Intendencia include the fairly flat Los Hitos trek to the border with Chile (18km return). This can be made into a five-day trek to the town of Puelo on the Pacific. Before setting out, check on the procedure at the Intendencia, and ask for information on where to cross the Rio Azul if water levels are high.
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