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Bariloche's most popular excursion is along the Circuito Chico , a 65-kilometre road circuit along the lake shore to the west of town. You could join one of the organized tours (4hr) or visit the highlights on public transport. Buses (3 de Mayo) leave from the terminal and from Moreno and Rolando: #20 for Puerto Panuelo and Llao Llao and #10 for Colonia Suiza. The initial part of the circuit is disappointing: as you drive along Avenida Bustillo you'll pass a stream of twee boutiques, hotels, restaurants, workshops and factory outlets for cottage industries. It's good for buying regional produce ranging from woollen sweaters to preserves, smoked trout and meats, ceramics, chocolates and wood carvings, but for very little else. The best sights of the circuit lie at its westernmost end. Before you reach Puerto Panuelo - where boats depart for excursions to the Isla Victoria, the Bosque de los Arrayanes, and Puerto Blest - you pass a tiny neat chapel, the Capilla San Eduardo (10am-1pm & 2-5pm; closed Thurs), on your left-hand side. Built with cypress and tiled with alerce shingles, it was designed by Estrada under the supervision of Bustillo. Across from the chapel is the magnificent sight of the Llao Llao , Argentina's most famous hotel (tel 02944/448530, fax 445781; llaollao@datamarkets.com.ar ; over $200). Guarding the neck of the peninsula from its verdant knoll, it is sited like some palatial country chateau, backed up by a centurion guard of mountains. Yet despite the hotel's size, Alejandro Bustillo's alpine design sits harmoniously with the scene. The original building - made in the Canadian style of enormous cypress logs and roofed with alerce tiles - tragically burnt down soon after completion in 1939. The forests were plundered again, and the hotel reopened in 1940. State-owned until 1991, the place itself is now owned by a private company and can be visited as part of a guided tour (Thurs only; book in advance; tel 02944/445709). For guests, facilities include an indoor pool, gym, tennis courts, conference rooms, a fine restaurant - Los Cesares - with superbly cooked regional cuisine (main courses $14-30), and a diminutive but beautiful eighteen-hole golf course. Not quite so grand, but plush nonetheless, the Hotel Amancay , overlooking Llao Llao at Av. Bustillo Km 24.8 (tel 02944/448344, fax 448348; amancay@bariloche.com.ar ; open Jan & Feb only, reserve three weeks in advance) has views to rival those of its exclusive neighbour. The wildest scenery of the circuit is found along the road that runs through the forested sector beyond Llao Llao . It brings you to the Cadena del Sol hotel at Bahia Lopez (tel 02944/448005; csol@hotelnet.com.ar ; $80-100) - a bulky place in a scenic location, opposite the domineering bluff of Cerro Lopez (2075m). It has a restaurant and its rooms are comfortable but, in low season, the place can be rather too quiet. The last point of call on the circuit is Colonia Suiza , originally settled by Swiss immigrants. There's nothing in particular to see here, but it's a good place for gorging yourself on Sunday lunch. The local speciality is a mixed meat-fest called curanto , traditionally prepared with hot stones: try the one at Lo de Nora/Curanto Emilio Goye , with lamb, sausages, pork, sweetcorn, potatoes, matambre , pumpkin and chicken (eat-all-you-like for $18, with wine, salads and dessert; arrive for 1.30pm; reserve on 02944/448250).
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