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Described by Borges as "an older, more solid world" in his short story entitled El Sur , the south is Buenos Aires' most traditional quarter and one of the most rewarding areas of the city to stroll around. Immediately to the south of Plaza de Mayo, there's the barrio of Montserrat , packed with historic buildings, churches and two small but enjoyable museums, the Museo de la Ciudad , whose inventive displays of domestic trivia make a refreshing change from the city's more traditional museums, and the Museo Etnografico Juan Bautista Ambrosetti , focusing on South America's indigenous population. Heading south through Montserrat , you'll find yourself amongst the cobbled streets and alleyways of San Telmo , where grand nineteenth-century mansions testify to the days when the barrio was Buenos Aires' most patrician. San Telmo is particularly worth visiting on a Sunday, when its central square, Plaza Dorrego, is the scene of a fascinating antiques market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo. At the southern end of the barrio, there's the tranquil Parque Lezama - a good spot for observing local life at play, and home to the comprehensive Museo Historico Nacional . Beyond Parque Lezama, and stretching all the way to the city's southern boundary, the Riachuelo, the quirky barrio of La Boca is another great place to spend a Saturday or Sunday, wandering its colourful streets and soaking up its idiosyncratic atmosphere. There's also a new and very good gallery here, the Fundacion Proa . Alongside the river, to the southeast of the city centre, there's the spectacularly wild Reserva Ecologica , a newly created park filled with pampas grass and birds, alongside the city's old riverside avenue, the Costanera Sur .
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