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Begun in 1887 but not actually finished until 1937, the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Lujan (daily 7.30am-8pm; Mass Mon-Sat 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 5pm & 7pm, Sun 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 12.30pm, 4pm, 5pm & 7pm; guided visits hourly 10am-noon & 2-6pm; $3) is a mammoth neo-Gothic edifice, built using a pinkish stone quarried in Colon, Entre Rios. A heavy, some might say heavy-handed, French influence is evident - reflecting the nationality of the basilica's architect, Ulderico Courtois. In true Gothic style, everything about the basilica points heavenwards, from its remarkably elongated twin spires, which stand 106 metres tall, to the acute angles of the architraves surrounding the three main doors. At the very centre of the facade, a large circular or rose stained-glass window depicts the Virgin. Sixteen statues, representing the twelve apostles and the four evangelists, sit within niches to either side of the window. Despite its imposing presence, it's what goes on inside the basilica that's most likely to catch your attention. Composed of a grand central nave, 30m long, and two lateral naves, the relatively restrained interior of the basilica simmers with hushed activity. Entering the place through one of the heavy bronze doors is a bit like stepping on to a religious conveyor belt as you get caught up in a seemingly endless stream of pilgrims, some on their hands or knees, others in wheelchairs, making their way to the Camarin de la Virgen . Up to eight Masses a day take place in the basilica and the aisles are lined with confessional boxes, where privacy seems to have been abandoned as priests sit expectantly with their doors open, bathed in a pool of light. This public spectacle has probably come about in recognition of the symbolic nature of making a confession in Lujan - although, given the steady flow of confessors, you might wonder if the busy priests haven't just grown bored of sitting in the dark. To visit the Virgin herself, simply follow the crowds along the aisles and up the stairs to the chamber behind the main altar. The crypt below the basilica harbours reproductions of Virgins from all over the world, but particularly from Latin America and Eastern Europe: a rather quick-fire guided tour in Spanish (same hours as basilica; $2.50, combined ticket $4) explains the significance behind each icon.
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