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Though lacking the soaring grandeur of the Andes, the Sierra de la Ventana is still impressive. Compared to the older and gentler Tandilia range to the northeast, these are proper mountains, with peaks tall enough to be shrouded with dark grey clouds in bad weather and to dominate the horizon for some distance. Formed principally from sedimentary rock during the Paleozoic Period, the range is notable for its intensely folded appearance and for its subtle grey-blue and pink hues - thrown into relief in late summer against the yellowing cultivated fields which surround the sierra. Most walking and climbing activities take place within a relatively small stretch of the sierras, lying between the villages of Sierra de la Ventana, Villa Ventana and Tornquist and mostly contained within the Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist , which covers some 67 square kilometres and lies to the north and south of the RP76. The park encompasses the most dramatic section of the sierras, including their undisputed star attraction, the Cerro Ventana , a 1134-metre peak pierced by a hole, formed by the collapse of a cave, that measures some eight by four metres. On clear days, the hole is visible from the road - although from this distance it appears a rather insignificant phenomenon; you'll get a much more rewarding view from the summit where the phenomenon lives up to its name (ventana means window in Spanish); its jagged edges framing a wonderful view of the surrounding sierra and pampa. Though the harsh, somewhat threatening, peaks of the sierra may appear rather barren, the parque also supports a surprising range of wildlife including pumas, foxes, guanacos, armadillos and vizcachas and the endemic copper iguana, named for its distinctive colour. The area around the foot of the sierras is also notable for being one of the last remaining tracts of original pampa grassland, roamed by herds of wild horses. Lying just outside the park boundaries, 6km to the south of Villa Ventana, is the range's highest peak, Cerro Tres Picos (1239m). The peak is less dramatic looking than Cerro de la Ventana, but its height, combined with its distance from the nearest base, makes it a more substantial hike. Unfortunately, the route to the summit passes over private land whose new owners have somewhat curtailed access to the peak. You should check with the tourist office in Sierra de la Ventana before making the hike; it is possible that access will be allowed only via organized trekking excursions - try Geotur at Avenida San Martin 193 (tel 0291/491-5355) in Sierra de la Ventana. Long-distance buses from Buenos Aires, Azul and Bahia Blanca pass through the villages of Sierra de la Ventana and Tornquist. They will also drop you at the entrance to Villa Ventana or Campamento Base , both of which lie along the RP76. For return journeys to Buenos Aires, it's best to leave from Sierra de la Ventana or Tornquist, so that you can buy your ticket in advance; at busy times (Sun evening & Mon after long weekends) the bus is often full by the time it reaches Sierra de la Ventana. Trains also connect Sierra de la Ventana and Tornquist with Bahia Blanca and Buenos Aires. All tourist information for the region is dealt with at the tourist office in the village of Sierra de la Ventana. The easiest way of getting around the sierra is with your own transport; if you're relying on public transport you'll need to plan carefully: local service Expreso Las Sierras (2 daily) connects the village of Sierra de la Ventana with Tornquist, about 50km northwest, stopping more or less everywhere along the route, including both park entrances and the turn-off to Villa Ventana. Buses leave at 9am and 5pm from Sierra de la Ventana and noon and 7.30pm from Tornquist. Alternatively, you could catch one of the long-distance buses (3 daily) that pass through the villages or take a taxi - try Remis Avenida (tel 0291/491-5307) or Radio-Taxi San Bernardo (tel 0291/491-5031), both based in Sierra de la Ventana.
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