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The great savannahs and intricate river systems of western Cape York and the Gulf of Carpentaria were described in 1623 by the Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz as being full of hostile tribes - not surprising, since he'd already kidnapped two men and chased the rest off with musket fire. The Gulf was ignored for centuries thereafter, except by Indonesians gathering sea-slugs to sell to the Chinese, but interest in its potential was stirred in 1841 by John Lort Stokes , a lieutenant on the Beagle (which had been graced by a young Charles Darwin on an earlier voyage) who absurdly described the coast as "Plains of Promise": A vast boundless plain lay before us, here and there dotted with woodland isles? I could discover the rudiments of future prosperity and ample justification of the name which I had bestowed upon them. It took Burke and Wills' awful 1861 trek to discover that the "woodland isles" were deficient in nutrients and that the black soil became a quagmire during the wet season. Too awkward to develop, the Gulf hung in limbo as settlements sprang up, staggered on for a while, then disappeared; even today few places could be described as thriving communities. Not that this should put you off visiting: with few real destinations but plenty to see, the Gulf is a perfect destination for those who just like to travel. On the way, and only half a day's drive from Cairns, the awesome lava tubes at Undara shouldn't be missed, while further afield there are gemstones to be fossicked, the coast's birdlife and exciting barramundi fishing to enjoy, and the Gulf's sheer remoteness to savour. Two sealed roads head through the region to Normanton and Karumba: the Gulf Developmental Road , which starts southwest of Ravenshoe on the Atherton Tablelands, and the Burke Developmental Road from Mount Isa; both routes are covered by Coral Coaches (tel 07/4031 7577), which run three times a week from Cairns, stopping at all major settlements. The Mareeba-Normanton "road", via Chillagoe, is a shattering, unserviced, five-hundred-kilometre track best tackled by well-equipped off-road transport only - as are all the Gulf's remoter stretches. In the wet season , flying is the sole option for any travel. Safaris run from Cairns if you don't have the right vehicle, or you could get at least part of the way around on the Gulf's two rustic railways . Most visitors to the Gulf need to be reasonably self-sufficient, as there are few banks and accommodation is largely in campsites (no hostels) or pricey hotels. For information before you go, contact Gulf Savannah Tourism at 74 Abbott St, Cairns (tel 07/4031 1631, www.gulf-savannah.com.au ), who have heaps of brochures and advice, though they don't make bookings. Once in the region, you'll find the local NPWS are joined by the Savannah Guides , a private ranger organization recently voted the best of its type in the world, which runs campsites with guides to show you around. On a more alarming note, you might also come face to face with the Gulf's two crocodile species - take care.
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