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The 1100km from Katherine, south down the " Track " (as the Stuart Highway is known) to Alice Springs, are regarded as something of a no-man's-land for travellers. A flat, arid plain rolls from the Top End's big rivers to the waterholes of the Red Centre. The white population in this region is sparse, and consists largely of individuals who are either unusually tenacious, transient or slowly going "troppo". West of the Track, the vast Aboriginal lands of the Warlpiri and neighbouring groups just about occupy the entire Tanami Desert , while to the east are the grasslands of the Barkly Tableland , a declining pastoral region extending north to the seldom-visited coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria . Tennant Creek , just over halfway, can be an expectedly anti-climactic break to a bus journey, and even car drivers tend to press on down the Track before something breaks or wears out. The landscape as seen from the Stuart Highway encourages a kind of agoraphobic urgency (or just plain boredom), while the mind churns repetitively over such imponderables as "just how many anthills are there in the Northern Territory?"
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