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The central attraction of the Nitmiluk National Park is the magnificent twelve-kilometre Katherine Gorge , carved by the Katherine River through the Arnhemland plateau. Often described as thirteen gorges, it is in fact one continuous cleft, turning left and right along fault lines and separated during the Dry season by rock bars. The spectacle of the river, hemmed in by orange cliffs, makes for a wonderful cruise or canoe trip and, unlike Kakadu, Nitmiluk also welcomes bushwalkers along its many marked trails . Travel North (free call 1800 089 103) operates shuttle buses along the sealed road between Katherine and the gorge for $17 return. The all-new Park Visitors Centre (daily 8am-7pm) has interpretive displays on the park's features from the local Jawoyn Aborigines' perspective (they own the park), and provides maps and further information on the trails, including the Guide to Nitmiluk National Park ($4.95) with topographical walking maps. It also includes a restaurant, gallery and a model of the gorge system which puts it all in perspective. As you sit on the terrace overlooking the river below, consider that in the catastrophic floods of January 1998 you would have been under a metre of water. Bushwalks include the 66-kilometre hike to Edith Falls , in the park's northwestern corner, for which you'll need at least three days, a minimum of two people and a $50 returnable deposit. Away from the gorge itself, the terrain is rough and very dry; be sure to wear sturdy footwear and a hat, and carry plenty of water. As a safety precaution, all walkers must register ($1; overnight stays $20 refundable deposit) with the rangers at the visitors centre: those on day-hikes must check in again by 6pm.
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