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To Middle Head: bus #247. To Cobblers Beach: ferry to Cremorne Wharf, then bus #204, or bus #206 direct from outside the Queen Victoria Building. Separating Chowder Bay from another chunk of Sydney Harbour National Park on Middle Head, a military reserve and naval depot blocked coastal access to both Georges Head and the more spectacular Middle Head by foot for over a century, although they could always be reached by road. Since the military's recent withdrawal from the site, however, walkers can now trek all the way between Bradleys Head and Middle Head. The 1890s military settlement itself, the Middle Head Fort , reached by a brand-new boardwalk from the northern end of Clifton Gardens , is now open to visitors as a reserve; NPWS offer tours of its underground fortifications on the second and fourth Sunday of the month (10.30am; 2hr; $13.20; tel 9247 5033). On the Hunters Bay side of Middle Head, tiny Cobblers Beach is officially nude, and is a much more peaceful, secluded option than the more famous Lady Jane at South Head .
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