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Balmain , directly north of Glebe (bus #433 or #434), is less than 2km from the Opera House by ferry from Circular Quay to Darling Street Wharf. Stuck out on a spur in the harbour and separated from the centre by Darling Harbour and Johnston's Bay, Balmain has managed to preserve the slow, villagey atmosphere that has made it the favoured abode of many writers and filmmakers. However, the new Anzac Bridge has drastically reduced driving time from the city centre and the #442 bus can whizz you over quickly from outside the Queen Victoria Building. Like better-known Paddington, Balmain was once a working-class quarter of terraced houses that has gradually been renovated. The docks at White Bay are still important, though, and Balmain hasn't completely forsaken its roots, with a good mix of old, young and families. Darling Street rewards a leisurely stroll, with a bit of browsing in its speciality shops (focused on clothes and gifts), and grazing in its restaurants and cafes. It, and the surrounding backstreets, are also blessed with enough watering holes to warrant a pub crawl - two classics are the London Hotel on Darling Street and the Exchange Hotel on Beattie Street . The best time to come is on Saturday, when a lively market occupies the grounds of St Andrews Church on the corner opposite the London Hotel . For stunning sunsets and wow-worthy real estate, meander down the backstreets towards the spit of land called Birchgrove , where Louisa Road leads to Birchgrove Wharf . From here you can catch a ferry back to Circular Quay, or stay and relax in the small park on Yurulbin Point. Alternatively, the #441 bus can whisk you back into town.
For a self-guided tour of Balmain and Birchgrove, the Balmain Walks leaflet ($2) is available from Balmain Library, 370 Darling St, or the well-stocked Pentimento Bookshop, at no. 275.
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