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North of William Street just below Kings Cross, Woolloomooloo occupies the old harbourside quarter between The Domain and the grey-painted fleet of the Garden Island Naval Depot . Once a narrow-streeted dockside slum, Woolloomoloo is slowly being spruced up, though luxury housing developments such as the Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf live uneasily side by side with problematic community housing, and you should still be careful at night in the backstreets. There are some rowdy pubs and some old-fashioned quiet locals, as well as the legendary Harry's Cafe de Wheels on Cowper Wharf Road , a 24-hour pie-cart operating since 1945. Famous for pea and pie floaters, Harry's has become a gathering place for Sydney cabbies and hungry clubbers in the wee small hours. Across Cowper Wharf Road at nos. 43-51, an old stone warehouse is home to The Gunnery Arts Centre ; its gallery (Tues-Sat 11am-6pm) shows provocative young artists and is worth a look. Woolloomooloo is best reached by foot from Kings Cross by taking the McElhone Stairs or the Butlers Stairs from Victoria Street - just follow the constant stream of white-clad sailors.
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