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Surry Hills , directly east of Central Station from Elizabeth Street, was traditionally the centre of the rag trade, which still finds its focus on Devonshire Street . Rows of tiny terraces once housed its original poor, working-class population, many of them of Irish background. Considered a slum by the rest of Sydney, the dire and overcrowded conditions were given gritty life in Ruth Park's The Harp in the South trilogy, set in the 1940s . The area went on to become something of a cultural melting pot with European postwar immigration, and doubled as a grungy, studenty, muso heartland in the 1980s. By the mid-1990s, however, the slickly fashionable scene of neighbouring Darlinghurst and Paddington had finally taken over Surry Hills' twin focal points of Crown Street , filled with trendified pubs, cafes, swanky restaurants - like MG Garage , where you dine alongside classic cars - designer galleries and funky clothes shops, and leafy Bourke Street , where a couple of Sydney's best cafes lurk among the trees. As rents have gone up, only traffic-snarled Cleveland Street , running west to Redfern and east towards Moore Park, retains its ethnically varied population with cheap Indian and Turkish restaurants lining its way.
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