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The town of MARGARET RIVER , like the eponymous region, has come to symbolize every stress-worn Perthian's dream to escape the rat race, set up a craft boutique or a sylvan getaway, and claim their share of the Good Life. It's a favourite place for a mix of holiday-makers, partying wave-riders, floral-clad muses and the vanguard of fortunate "mappies" (middle-aged professionals) who moved in ahead of the real-estate boom. Margaret River is not necessarily the best place actually to stay - prices can be high in summer when the town is busy - but it's handy for shopping, eating out and browsing, while its tourist office (daily 9am-5pm; tel 08/9757 2911, amrta@netserv.net.au ), on the Bussell Highway, represents the whole region. Westrail and South West Coach Lines buses visit daily from Perth; local taxis (tel 08/9757 3444) are used to being taken along on some serious wine-tasting jaunts. Highly recommended are local Bushtucker Tours (tel 08/9757 9084), who run a cave and canoe tour ($33) as well as a winery tour ($44). The range of accommodation is vast, with over sixty sites in the immediate vicinity, but the woodland settings out of town are the ones to go for; the helpful tourist office has big portfolios full of ideas. The Inne Town backpackers' (free call 1800 244 115; under $50), on the main road at the north end of town, is ideally central but that's the only thing going for it. A better idea for budget travellers is Margaret River Lodge , 2km out of town on Railway Terrace (tel 08/9757 9532, fax 9757 2352, www.mrlodge.com.au ), which also has rooms with en suites (dorms under $20, rooms $50-70) or sample backpacker luxury at Surfpoint Lodge out on the beach. At the other end of the scale, Basildene Manor on Walcliffe Road (tel 08/9757 3140, fax 9757 3383, www.basildene.com.au ; $150 and upwards), built in 1912, is a re-creation of an English manor listed by the National Trust as a significant Heritage property. Both the Margaret River (tel 08/9757 2180; on-site vans $35-50) and the Riverview (tel 08/9757 2270; on-site vans $35-50) caravan parks are just a kilometre out of town. The whole countryside is dotted with charming restaurants, often attached to wineries . In town, the main street has a host of good-quality restaurants and cafes . Try the Ark of Iris cafe; the sesame burgers and veggie breakfasts at Cafe 1 Eleven ; or join the young crowd at Settlers , the town's main pub , which puts on live music in summer. Cafe Fortes (tel 08/9757 3101) is an upmarket restaurant that uses locally grown produce. There's an internet cafe behind the Challenge bank on the Bussell Highway.
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