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South of Dunsborough you head into the Margaret River Region proper, characterized by caves, wineries, choice restaurants and snug hideaways all interspersed with more galleries, craft studios and potteries than in the rest of the state put together. Passing Ngilgi Cave you come to the turn-off for YALLINGUP , a small seaside resort with a lovely clean beach and surfers waiting for the big one. Further along Caves Road is the Gunyulgup Gallery (daily 10am-5pm) with a particularly fine selection of pottery, glass, paintings and jarrah furniture by local artisans; down the road another gallery features a lovely restaurant overlooking a lake. Yallingup Forest Resort (tel 08/9755 2550, fax 9756 6016; $115-150) on Hemsley Road off Caves Road would suit an extended stay in the area, offering large, self-contained chalets with the use of a pool and tennis court. The site also hosts the Wicked Ale Brewery (tel 08/9755 2848) where chocolate beer is on tap and Yallingup Camel Safaris (tel 0419 194 998). A couple of kilometres back down Caves Road, from the Gunyulgup Gallery and Restaurant , is a crossroads where the Crayfish Lodge (tel 08/9755 2028, fax 9755 2406; $115-150) gives the impression you have walked into an English B&B. The right turn leads 3km to Canal Rocks , where the waves relentlessly pound the pink-granite outcrops into curious, scalloped forms. Further south are turn-offs to the Abbey Vale Winery and Moonshine Brewery (daily 10.30am-5pm) and, further on, Cape Clairault Winery (daily 10am-5pm), one of the better choices if you fancy some wine-tasting. Those intent on visiting some of the 45 wineries within half as many kilometres should pick up the Margaret River Regional Vineyard Guide ($4.35) or the Regional Map and Guide (35c) from the Margaret River tourist office . Another turning west off Caves Road leads 4km to Quininup Beach , accessible only to high-clearance vehicles and thus rarely crowded, and Gracetown , 12km south, on the sheltered Cowaramup Bay. Five kilometres further on, a right turn leads to Ellenbrook House , a Bussell homestead dating from 1857 - bare inside but in a lovely, quiet spot by the brook. From here it's a thirty-minute walk up to the luxuriant Meekadarribee Falls which, unusually, manage to spiral underneath themselves. After Ellenbrook you come to the crossroads leading east 5km to Margaret River township, while a right turn takes you to the resort of PREVELLY PARK , on the estuary of the Margaret River. The Greek Chapel of St John will certainly catch your eye: a memorial to the Preveli Monastery on Crete which sheltered Allied soldiers, Australians among them, in World War II. The turning opposite leads down to the blustery beach where November's annual Margaret River Classic surfing championships are held, so long as sponsors continue to support the event. The surf here is legendary among WA boardriders. Back at the chapel, the road continues down into the resort , which has the usual assortment of chalets and caravan parks. Check out the Cafe Gnarabup (Nov-Feb daily 8.30am-sunset), overlooking the sea and offering the mouthwatering aroma of sizzling fish or just coffee and cakes. The modern Surfpoint Lodge , on Reidle Drive (tel 08/9757 1777, fax 9757 1077, www.surfpoint.com ; en-suite rooms $35-50, dorms under $20) is one of WA's best-keep secrets and is a far better idea than heading into Margaret River. Free pick-ups are on offer from Margaret River if you call ahead.
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