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Esperance and the South Coast






Esperance, 721km southeast of Perth, is at the western end of the Archipelago of the Recherche . Both town and archipelago are attractively named after French ships which visited the area in the late eighteenth century and whose persistent nosing around precipitated the hasty colonization of WA by the British. The archipelago is a string of haze-softened granite isles bobbing in the inky blue Southern Ocean, presenting an almost surreal seascape common to coasts washed by cold currents. The mild summer weather (rarely exceeding 30°C), fishing possibilities (especially the local snapper) and surrounding national parks make the town a popular destination for heat-sensitive holiday-makers.

Southeast of Esperance are Cape Le Grand and the much less visited Cape Arid National Park (both charge CALM fees) on the edge of the Great Australian Bight, while 130km north of town is the undeveloped Peak Charles National Park - a hill in the middle of nowhere. Back towards Albany, the Fitzgerald River National Park offers a wilderness of rare flora. Care should be taken all along this restless coastline, as king waves (unexpectedly huge waves indistinguishable in the swell) frequently sweep away fishermen and climbers from exposed, rocky shores.

You can get to Esperance from Kalgoorlie with Westrail's bus service (1 daily Mon-Wed, 2 daily Fri; 5hr) or

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direct from Perth on the Spirit of Esperance service (1 daily Mon-Thurs, 2 on Fri; 10hr). Albany, nearly 500km to the east along the South Coast Highway, can only be reached from Esperance direct on Mondays and Thursdays (connecting buses on Tues & Fri). To get from Albany to Esperance, it's best to arrange a lift with fellow travellers. Skywest Airlines (free call 1800 642 225) flies from Perth to Esperance twice daily on weekdays and daily at weekends (1hr 50min).


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12/5/2008 11:48:41 AM

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