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The alternating sheltered bays and rugged headlands of the Rainbow Coast around Albany , WA's original colonial settlement, have gradually been gentrified by semi-retired pastoral yuppies with cultivated tastes and a yen for alternative lifestyles. As elsewhere in the Southwest, the temperate climate here creates a rural antipodean-English idyll unknown in the rest of WA. Albany, 410km from Perth, is promoted as a mildly sophisticated holiday destination, while Denmark , 54km to the west, is a twee, arty hamlet with Walpole 's bays and tingle forests marking the Rainbow Coast's limit. An hour's drive north of Albany lie the wine-making region of Mount Barker and the Porongurup and Stirling Ranges national parks . Perth's radial bus services to the main centres run on a frequent basis, but moving around requires some planning to avoid inconvenient delays. Westrail buses depart from Perth for Albany at least twice daily, either directly down the Albany Highway (6hr) or four times a week via Bunbury and twice weekly via Pemberton (8hr). Car rental , or shared lifts, are clearly a better option and tours , despite their breathless pace, will at least show you it all, however briefly.
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