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That part of northern Kauai that is unique and unspoiled seems to be diminishing all the time. The astonishing valleys of the Na Pali coast itself must surely remain inviolate - though accessible enough by canoe to sustain large Hawaiian populations, their awesome walls shield them from any attempt to build roads there. But the bulldozers are inching ever closer. Only temporar ily did 1991's Hurricane Iniki manage to slow the growth of the resort of Princeville , which began life as a sugar plantation in 1860. Long, golden Secret Beach , hidden away from the road up from Kapaa, is among Kauai's best-looking beaches, though swimming is usually unsafe. An unofficial center for campers and nudists, local landowners have been cracking down on long-term stays. To get there, drive up Hwy-56 from the south, pass Kilauea and then turn right at Kalihiwai. Take the second right onto a dirt track leading to a parking area, and the beach is a ten-minute walk down through the woods. At the far end a waterfall of beautiful fresh mountain water cascades down the cliffs, and there are often spinner dolphins just offshore, especially around the picturesque 1913 Kilauea lighthouse . The cliffs above are a bird sanctuary.
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