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Although it's fairly easy to find your bearings in the centre of town, to get a fix on Oaxaca's relation to the rest of the valley and Monte Alban, take a hike (about 45min from the zocalo) up Cerro del Fortin, on the northwestern edge of the city. It is steep, but the views are rewarding and in the evening you can call in on the Planetario Nundenui (25min shows in Spanish only: Wed, Fri & Sat 7pm, Sun 6pm & 7pm; US$2). The road up here passes the Auditorio Guelaguetza, the venue for the annual festival known as Lunes del Cerro ("Monday of the Hill"), primarily because the folk dances take place on the first two Mondays after July 16. Around Christmas, many of Oaxaca's boisterous celebrations also take place here.
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