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If you're heading west, you may want to take a bus or taxi (anything heading for the Plaza del Sol should pass all the areas below, or look for "Par Vial"), although the University is still within easy walking distance (15min) of the centre. Here you can see more of Orozco 's major murals, among the first he painted in Guadalajara, in the Museo de los Artes , at Juarez 975 (Tues-Sat 10.30am-8pm, Sun 11am-8pm; US$1), opposite the modern main university building at Juarez and Diaz de Leon (aka Av Tolsa). Head for the main hall (the Paraninfo ) to see the frescoed dome and front wall. Again, the theme fits the setting: in this case the dome shows the glories and benefits of education, while the wall shows the oppressed masses crying out for books and education, which are being denied them by fat capitalists and the army. Behind the university buildings, across Lopez Cotilla, the Templo Expiatorio , a modern neo-Gothic church, features some innovative stained-glass and an attractive altar. Across Diaz de Leon a block south at no. 300, you'll find the Instituto Cultural Norteamericano . Basically a language school, the Institute has English-language magazines lying around and a cafe at the back. You may not be supposed to wander in off the streets, but no one seems to mind. Beyond the university, Juarez changes its name to Vallarta, and the character of the street changes rapidly, too. Within ten blocks, around the major junction of Vallarta and Chapultepec , you find yourself in a very different city, a far quieter place of broad avenues, expensive shops and pleasant restaurants, with drive-in burger joints and big houses in the back streets. Many of the airlines have their offices out here, along with American Express and several consulates; there's a large branch of Sanborn's at Vallarta and General Martin. Further out, Vallarta crosses the major artery of Lopez Mateos at the Minerva Circle, an intersection marked by a triumphal arch. Most buses turn left at the Minerva Circle down Lopez Mateos Sur towards the Plaza del Sol , a vast commercial development said to be one of the largest in Latin America. There's an enormous shopping centre, as well as new administrative offices, and inside a couple of good cafes, an ice-cream parlour and, in the evenings, several disco-clubs. Also on Lopez Mateos are numerous big hotels and themed restaurants - all very much the modern face of suburban Mexico.
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