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The most celebrated of Guadalajara's suburbs, SAN PEDRO TLAQUEPAQUE is famous for its artesanias and for its mariachi bands. Once a separate town, some 5km southeast of the centre, it has long since been absorbed by urban sprawl, and its traditional crafts taken over almost entirely by tourism; the streets are lined with shops selling, for the most part, pretty tacky goods at thoroughly inflated prices. Nevertheless, it's worth seeing, and there are still quality pieces among the dross - notably some of the ceramics and glassware on which the area's reputation was founded. Tlaquepaque centres around a pleasantly laid-back main square complete with bandstand, on whose northern side is the tangerine-roofed church of San Pedro. To its west, the three-domed Sanctuario de la Virgen de la Soledad is an almost equally distinctive landmark. Along the square's southern side runs Independencia, Tlaquepaque's main street. The #275 or TUR bus from the centre will drop you three blocks south on Porvenir, and can be picked up for the return journey two blocks north of Independencia on Constitucion. You can also get on or off on General Marelino Garcia Barragan at the western end of Independencia and Constitucion, by a brick pedestrian overbridge and traffic circle. The tourist office is at Prieto 80 (Mon-Fri 9am-9pm; tel 6/35-5756). To see some of the best artesanias, visit the small Museo Regional de la Ceramica (Tues-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 10am-3pm; free), at Independencia 237, which has displays of pottery not only from Tlaquepaque but from all over the state, and especially Tonala. Most of what's on show is for sale - the place is more store than museum - but there's also a traditional kitchen to see, complete with all its plates, pots and pans, and displays of the individual works of some of the finest craftsmen, and the building is a fine old mansion in its own right. Almost all of the fancier shops are nearby on Independencia , many of them again occupying colonial-era houses that are interesting in themselves. Closed to traffic, it's a pleasant street along which to window-shop. Among the more worthwhile stores are Sergio Bustamante, at no. 238, opposite the museum, where there are flamingos and peacocks in the patio to go with Sergio's famous fantastical figures in papier mache and bronze - lovely to look at, even if the price and size are such that you won't be buying. Opposite each other a block west of the museum are La Casa Canela, at no. 258 (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm & 3-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 11am-3pm), and Antigua de Mexico, at no. 255 (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm), two more lovely houses that sell upmarket fabrics, furniture and antiques to a mainly Mexican clientele. Juarez, one block south of Independencia, has fewer - but slightly less touristy - stores and, at no. 317, a workshop where you can see glass being blown. A more compelling reason to make the trip out to Tlaquepaque, though, is to stop off at El Parian , an enclosed plaza that is in effect the biggest bar you've ever seen. Since the shops all close down for a siesta anyway, you have every excuse to hang out here for a couple of hours. There are actually a dozen or so separate establishments around this giant courtyard, but since everyone sits outside, the tables tend to overlap and strolling serenaders wander around at random, it all feels like one enormous place. They all charge much the same, too, and offer the same limited range of food - basically birria, quesadillas and queso fundido - plus lots to drink: prices seem reasonable on the menu, but watch out for the cost of the drinks and for added service charges. At the weekend, particularly Sunday afternoons, you'll see mariachi at its best here, when the locals come along and offer their own vocal renditions to the musicians' backing. On weekdays it can be disappointingly quiet. You'll find El Parian on Independencia, just east of the main square. There are a couple of fine colonial churches here, too, and several banks in case you've been carried away by the shopping experience. And if you've had too good a time to struggle home, or you really take the purchasing seriously, you can stay right here at the Posada en el Parian , Independencia 74 (tel 65/635-21-89; US$10-15). There's a small local Mercado Municipal behind Independencia opposite El Parian (entrance by the hotel), and numerous fancy restaurants on Independencia if El Parian is not for you.
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