Visiting Chiapas: The Legacy Of The Zapatista Rebellion
On January 1, 1994 , the day the NAFTA treaty came into effect, several thousand lightly armed rebels, wearing their uniform of green or black army-style tunics and black pasamontanas (balaclavas), occupied San Cristobal de las Casas, the former state capital and Chiapas' major tourist destination. When the Mexican army recovered from the shock, its immediate response was to launch a violent counter-attack. However, an unprecedented level of international solidarity with the rebels soon forced the Mexican government to halt a brutal counter-insurgency policy. Now, despite a cease-fire since 1995, years of on/off negotiations and with the PRI no longer in power, no lasting peace treaty has been signed. Although the rebellion itself now belongs more to history than current affairs, the Zapatista's leader Subcomandante Marcos retains his enigmatic charisma as champion of the underprivileged and the Zapatistas continue to benefit from immense popular support. Throughout the rebellion tourists have visited Chiapas without problems other than delays due to army checks. In San Cristobal Zapatista dolls and Marcos souvenirs, emblazoned with his masked features, sell in their thousands. A word of warning , though, if your sympathies extend beyond giving economic assistance to the indigenous souvenir makers: at the time of writing there is still a concerted anti-foreigner campaign in Chiapas. Government officials, citing the "infestation of foreign activists who stir up and manipulate many indigenous groups contrary to constitutional order" claim that the presence of simpatico foreigners influences and even controls political opposition in the state. Although there are foreign observers in "civil peace camps" in the Zapatista areas, they are not recognized as such by the Mexican authorities. Being in (or even near) the conflict zone invites suspicion of taking part in political activities - illegal for foreigners - and can lead to deportation. If you do go be as fully informed as you can: SIPAZ , the International Service for Peace does have a volunteer programme in Chiapas and their website - www.nonviolence.org/sipaz - provides more information. The extremely well-organized Zapatista website - www.ezln.org - has superb links, and is also an excellent source of information. It's worth noting that if you're entering Mexico via Chiapas (only possible from Guatemala) you'll almost certainly be given a maximum of fifteen-days' stay - and to renew your entry stamp in the state, you'll have to undergo a lengthy interview with an immigration official during which you'll need to convince them that you're neither a journalist nor going anywhere in the conflict zone . The best bet if you want to stay longer in Chiapas (or Mexico) is to renew your tourist card in another state capital (say in Campeche or Merida).
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