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BEAVER CREEK , Canada's westernmost settlement (pop. 145), is the last stop before Alaska. Following concerted lobbying from its inhabitants, however, it no longer houses the customs post - this has been moved a couple of kilometres up the road in response to complaints from the locals about the flashing lights and sirens that used to erupt whenever a tourist forgot to stop. Though the border is open 24 hours a day, you may have to stay here, particularly if you're catching the Alaskon bus service from Skagway and Whitehorse, which stops overnight at Beaver Creek on trans-Alaskan routes. The bus company can book you into the large and expensive Westmark Inn (tel 862-7501 or 1-800/544-0970, www.westmarkhotels.com ; $125-175; May-Sept): if that's too steep you've got the choice of arranging things for yourself at the eccentric twenty-room Ida's Motel and Restaurant (tel 862-3227; $80-100; summer 6am-2am, winter 8am-10pm), a distinctive building across the highway or, failing that, at the 1202 Motor Inn (tel 862-7600; $80-100). The Westmark has a large, serviced campsite ($20), though they're happier to see RVs than backpackers (try free camping in the woods). There's a good but small Yukon government-run site located 10km south at the Snag Junction ($8; May-Oct). Also be warned that if US Customs take against you or your rucksack, they can insist on seeing at least $400 or so in cash, and won't be swayed by any number of credit cards. For full details on border crossing, and what to expect on the other side, visit the Yukon Visitor Information Centre (mid-May to early Sept daily 8am-8pm; tel 862-7321).
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