Practicalities
The islands can be accessed either by air or ferry from Prince Rupert. Ferries from Prince Rupert dock at tiny Skidegate near Queen Charlotte City on Graham Island , the northern of the group's two main collections of islands . Most of the archipelago's six thousand inhabitants live either in Queen Charlotte City or at Masset to the north, leaving the southern cluster of islands across Skidegate Channel - known for convenience as Moresby Island - a virtually deserted primal wilderness, but for the small community at Sandspit . Regular twenty-minute ferry crossings connect Moresby Island to Skidegate (twelve sailings daily year-round; $4.50, cars $8.50). Or you can fly to the islands from Prince Rupert, landing at Sandspit, which has the islands' only airstrip (float planes can land elsewhere). Air BC (tel 1-800/663-3721) flies here daily from Vancouver, but you might get better deals out of carriers with offices in Prince Rupert, such as Inland Air (tel 627-1351 or 1-888/624-2577) and the larger Harbour Air (tel 627-1341 or 1-800/665-0212). Harbour Air, for example, fly to Sandspit twice daily from Prince Rupert and also fly small planes to Masset on the north of Graham Island. It also has other flights around the islands, as do South Moresby Air Charters (tel 559-4222 or 1-888/551-4222, smoresby@qcislands.net ) in Queen Charlotte City, who'll take you out to the deepest of the backwoods. Noncamping accommodation is available only at Sandspit (on Moresby) and Queen Charlotte City, Tl'ell, Masset and Port Clements (on Graham) and should always be prebooked. The only public transport at time of writing is a service run by Eagle Cabs (check the current state of the service on tel 559-4461 or 1-877/747-4461) which operates a once-daily shuttle in summer in each direction between Sandspit, across the ferry and then on to Queen Charlotte City, Masset and points in between. Budget (tel 637-5688 or 1-800/557-3228) has car rental offices in Queen Charlotte City, Masset and Sandspit airport, but in summer you'll need to have booked in advance to secure a car. Thrifty (tel 637-2299) has an office at Sandspit airport and Tilden (tel 626-3318) one in Masset. Rates at Rustic Rentals (tel 559-4641) out of Charlotte Island Tire in Queen Charlotte City are a touch lower than the main companies. Car rental rates here are expensive, and unless you have a car, bike or canoe it's as well to know that you could be in for a long and expensive trip that shows you very little of what you came for. To see the Haida villages , in any case, virtually all of which are on inaccessible parts of Moresby, you'll need to take a boat, and more probably a pricey tour by float plane.
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