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One of the region's more northerly communities, ULUQSAQTUUQ , or Holman (pop. 300), lies across Coronation Gulf on Victoria Island from Cambridge Bay - strictly speaking, just outside Nunavut's borders. Most people are here to fish for trout and arctic char or, remarkably, for the novelty of playing golf on one of the world's most northerly courses. The settlement is situated in a scenic open cove, the half-moon Queen's Bay, backed by massive two-metre bluffs and escarpments. It developed almost by default, when a Hudson's Bay Company post was moved here from Prince Albert Sound in 1939. Inuit had previously summered here in the search for caribou, but the post encouraged some to settle and sell white-fox furs with the Hudson's Bay traders. Today two groups of Inuit - the Copper and Inuvialuit - live here, the region forming part of a designated Inuvialuit settlement area. The community has become particularly well-known for its crafts, notably clothing and traditional tools, but most particularly prints and silk-screened items, a tradition that goes back fifty years, when an Oblate missionary, the Reverend Henri Tardi, came here and taught locals various printing techniques. You can buy crafts around the settlement, or at the gift shop in the hamlet's only accommodation , the Arctic Char Inn (tel 867/396-3501 or 396-3531, fax 396-3705; $175-240 per person), which has just eight rooms at $180 per person per night. You can camp at Okpilik Lake, but should be able to pitch a tent just about anywhere if you ask at the hamlet office. The Arctic Char Inn is the only place to eat , but there is a Northern groceries store almost opposite for supplies.
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