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The main highway north of Campbell River cuts inland and climbs through increasingly rugged and deserted country, particularly after Sayward, the one main community en route. Near Sayward is the marvellously oddball Valley of a Thousand Faces : 1400 famous faces painted onto cedar logs, the work of a Dutch artist, and more interesting than it sounds (May-Aug daily 10am-4pm; donation). Almost alongside, west of Hwy 19 at Sayward Junction, is an RV and tent campsite , the White River Court (tel 282-3265; sites $8). With a car, you could strike off south from here to Schoen Lake Provincial Park , located 12km off Hwy 19 on a rough road south of Woss village and featuring a couple of forest trails and a well-kept campsite ($9). Sayward has one motel , the Fisherboy Park , 400m off Hwy 19 at 1546 Sayward Rd (tel 282-3204; $60-80). PORT McNEILL , 180km north of Campbell River and the first real town along Hwy 19, is little more than a motel and logging centre and not somewhere to spend longer than necessary. If you get stuck here, the infocentre's at 351 Shelley Crescent (May to mid-Oct 9am-3pm; tel 956-3131, www.portmcneillchamber.com ).
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