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Returning to the old city at Porte St-Jean, head south on the steep rue d'Auteuil as it runs alongside the fortifications up to Porte Kent, next to the Chapelle des Jesuites , 20 rue Dauphine (Mon-Fri 9am-11.30pm & 1-4.30pm; free). The church's delicately carved altar and ecclesiastical sculptures are by Pierre-Noel Levasseur, one of the most illustrious artists to work on the early Quebec parish churches. Rue Dauphine continues northeast to rue Cook, which leads east to the Jardins de l'Hotel de Ville , scene of numerous live shows in the summer. The park surrounds the Hotel de Ville (City Hall), which dates from 1883, and is overlooked by the far more impressive Art Deco buildings of the Hotel Clarendon and the Edifice Price (the city's first skyscraper), at nos. 57 and 65 Ste-Anne, respectively. By the corner of rue Ste-Anne and rue des Jardins stands the first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles, the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (daily: May & June 10am-6pm; July & Aug 9am-8pm; Sept-Nov 10am-6pm; free guided tours; www.ogs.net/cathedral ). The king of France gave the site to the Recollet Fathers but their church burnt down in the late eighteenth century. Its replacement, constructed in 1800-04 on orders from George III, followed the lines of London's church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. The simple interior houses the 1845 bishops' throne, reputedly made from the wood of the elm tree under whose branches Samuel de Champlain conferred with the Iroquois. Many of the church's features came from London, including the silverware from George III. The golden bars on the balcony denote the seats for the exclusive use of British sovereigns. In the courtyard are Les Artisans de la Cathedrale, Quebec-based artisans whose small crafts and clothes stalls avoid tourist tack.
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