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Northwest of Vieux-Quebec, on the banks of the St-Charles River (bus #3 or #4), the Cartier-Brebeuf National Historic Site , 175 de l'Espinay (daily: May to early Sept 10am-5pm; early Sept to mid-Oct 1-4pm; $3; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/brebeuf ) has a double claim to fame. It marks the spot where Jacques Cartier spent the winter of 1535-36 in friendly contact with the people of the surrounding Iroquoian villages - a cordial start to a relationship that Cartier later soured by taking a local chief and nine of his men hostage. It is also where Jean de Brebeuf, with his Jesuit friends, built his first Canadian residence in 1625: Brebeuf is best known for his martyrdom near today's Midland in Ontario . The interpretive centre features an excellent account of Cartier's voyages and of the hardship he and his crew endured during the winter. The guided tour of the site (included in the entrance fee) leads to a mock-up of an Iroquoian longhouse and sweat lodge set within a palisade, where costumed guides demonstrate daily tasks, mostly to the benefit of the kids. Keep an eye out for the resident muskrat.
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