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Rue de la Place leads to Place de Paris , where a modern sculpture called Dialogue with History marks the disembarkation place of the first settlers from France. Close by, the Batterie Royal , trimly restored in the 1970s, was used to defend the city during the siege of 1759. The ferry to Levis (6.30am-2.20am; June-Sept $2.25, Oct-May $1.80 ) leaves from one block south, while a walk north along rue Dalhousie brings you to Quebec City's most impressive and dynamic museum, the Musee de la Civilisation , 85 rue Dalhousie (late June to early Sept daily 10am-7pm; early Sept to late June Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; $7, free on Tues Sept-June; www.mcq.org ). Designed by Canada's top-rank modern architect, Moshe Safdie, the building reflects the steeply pitched roofs of Quebec's earliest architecture and has won numerous awards for the way it blends with the historic surroundings. It actually incorporates three historic structures, including the two-storey merchant's house called the Maison Estebe, whose vaulted cellars now contain an excellent gift shop. Concentrating primarily on Canada but also diversifying into a wider perspective, the museum presents various changing exhibitions ranging from soap operas to immigration. Other than the foyer sculpture, Astri Reusch's La Debacle , which symbolizes the break-up of the ice in the spring thaw, there are two permanent exhibitions. "Memories" is a labyrinth that expertly displays life in Quebec from the early days of the settlers to the present. "Encounter with the First Nations", set up in consultation with all eleven of the First Nations of Quebec, presents the history and culture of these earlier residents using artefacts and videotaped oral histories; the larger items - including a rabaska , a large birchbark canoe used by the Atikamekw - were crafted in recent years.
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