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The zone of the Laurentians to the north of Quebec City is considerably more wild than the mountains near Montreal, thanks to the creation of the 8000-square-kilometre Reserve Faunique des Laurentides . The vast wooded terrain, with summits of more than 1000m towards the east, was once a hunting ground of the Montagnais, until the Hurons, armed by the French, drove the small population further north. The wildlife reserve became a protected area in 1895 to conserve the caribou herds, an intervention that was not a great success - very few exist today. However, though it allows controlled moose-hunting, the reserve's main function is still to preserve native animals such as the beaver, moose, lynx, black bear and deer, all of which you may see in remote areas. Hwy 175 from Quebec City traverses the reserve; halfway through is L'Etape , the only spot to fill up your tank or yourself until just before Chicoutimi. Nearby there's camping beside Lac Jacques-Cartier at the La Loutre campsite (tel 846-2201; $18), and chalets are available for $80 for two. About 25km north of L'Etape , Hwy 169 branches off to Alma on Lac St-Jean , while Hwy 175 continues on to Chicoutimi . Intercar (tel 525-3000 or 1-888/861-4592) runs a bus service through the park from Quebec City's bus station to both Alma (3 daily; 2hr 45min) and Chicoutimi (4-5 daily; 2hr 30min). If you want to stop in the park, the Camp Mercier reception centre, near the reserve's southern perimeter, gives out information (tel 848-2422 or 1-800/665-6527, www.sepaq.com ). The heavy snowfall makes the park an excellent place for cross-country skiing ($9 per day). In 1981, the southernmost portion of the reserve was set off as the Parc de la Jacques-Cartier ; a visitor centre , 10km from Hwy 175 (mid-May to late Oct; tel 848-3169), serves as the gateway to the Jacques-Cartier river valley, enclosed by 550m-high forested slopes. Rent canoes, kayaks, inflatable rafts and bicycles from Les Excursions Jacques-Cartier (tel 848-7272), who also manage the park's campsites . Pitches are available from $16.50, both near the visitor centre and in more peaceful spots further into the park.
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