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It's hard to think of any commuters who have as pleasant a morning trip as those who cross the St Lawrence from LEVIS to Quebec City. Levis itself is an attractive Victorian town, but the views of Quebec make the visit a treat. The regular ferry leaves day and night (until 2am) from near Quebec City's Place Royale, and costs $1.80 ($2.25 June-Sept) for the fifteen-minute crossing - double that if you go back. Most tourists stay on the ferry for the return trip, but those dauntless enough to scale the staircase to the Terrasse on the heights of Levis are rewarded with an even greater panorama. The Terrasse runs through a landscaped park whose centrepiece is a statue of Father Joseph David Deziel, founder of Levis. The main street of Levis, rue Deziel, is a couple of blocks north from the Terrasse and runs parallel to the river. The streets leading off it are as narrow and steep as those in Quebec City - on rues Notre Dame, Wolfe and Guenette, look out for examples of elaborate brickwork and ornate roof lines that are as fine as those across the water. The Maison Alphonse-Desjardins , 6 Mont-Marie (Mon-Fri 10am-noon & 1-4.30pm; free), is a particular delight with its cake frosting-like facade. Inside, a permanent exhibition explains the evolution of the cooperative credit union in Quebec.
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