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From Baie-Saint-Paul the main route onwards is Hwy 138, but if you have your own transport you should opt for the coast-hugging detour of Hwy 362 , which twists and turns through a succession of clifftop villages along the shore of the St Lawrence. Keep an eye out for the poorly marked lookout point two-thirds of the way up the hill from Baie-St-Paul - there's a magnificent view back over the town. The first settlement on this route is LES EBOULEMENTS , which means "landslides" - named after the massive earthquake of 1663, one of many that shaped this region. Just west of the village at no. 157 rue Principale is the eighteenth-century Moulin Banal (late June to early Sept daily 10am-5pm; $2), an operating flour mill atop a pretty waterfall on the well-kept grounds of the Manoir de Sales-Laterriere . The manor and mill are among the few intact structures left from the seigneurial regime of New France. The manor (a school) is not actually open to the public but a path leads up from the mill, with interpretive panels on the grounds. At the entrance to the grounds is a charming chapel (1840) built of wood and relocated here from St-Nicholas, a village on the St Lawrence. Further down the road, in the village itself, the Centre d'Interpretation de la Forge Tremblay , 214 rue Principale (tel 635-1401 or 1-888/935-1401; Nov to mid-May; free but reservations required), dating from 1888, is still used by blacksmiths. Seek refreshment in the tearoom in the Auberge le Surouet across the street. From Les Eboulements, a steep secondary road leads to the pretty coastal village of SAINT-JOSEPH-DE-LA-RIVE , once a shipyard; some heritage can be seen in the Exposition Maritime , 304 rue Felix-Antoine-Savard (mid-May to late June & early Sept to mid-Oct Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; late June to early Sept daily 9am-5pm; $2), a museum with a few nautical displays, a workshop and boat-building yards. Pop into the local church (June-Oct daily 9am-8pm; free) on chemin de l'Eglise, where anchors prop up the altar and the font is a huge seashell from Florida. Le Loup-Phoque , 188 rue Felix-Antoine-Savard, a funky spot good for food and views, has occasional live music. A free car ferry departs hourly (every half-hour in summer at peak times) for nearby Ile aux Coudres.
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