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The slopes of the Upper Laurentians , a vast sweep of coniferous forest dotted with hundreds of tranquil lakes and scored with rivers, was once Montreal's "wilderness back yard". Nowadays, winter sports have done away with the region's former tranquillity as thousands of Quebecois take to the slopes at more than 25 ski resorts, causing mind-numbing traffic jams. Still, much of the land has remained relatively untouched - like the Parc du Mont Tremblant - and the area is a must when autumn colours take over. The Upper Laurentians really cater to families on a week's sporty vacation, and much of the accommodation is pricey, as it includes gyms, tennis courts, golf courses and the like. However, a smattering of B&Bs and numerous motels are an alternative to those on a tight budget, as do the youth hostels in Val-David and Mont-Tremblant itself . Check out travel agents in Montreal - weekend packages can be a bargain. Use the free telephone accommodation service for the region (tel 1-800/561-6673, www.laurentides.com ), or pick up information on the resorts at the regional tourist office in Mirabel, 14142 rue de la Chapelle; take exit 39 off Hwy 15 (daily: late June to early Sept 8.30am-8.30pm; early Sept to late June 9am-5pm). During the ski season, snow-condition information can be found on www.skinetcanada.com . Two roads lead from Montreal to this area of the Laurentians: the Autoroute des Laurentides (Hwy 15) and the slower Hwy 117, which is the way to go if you want to go antique hunting as there are a number of large shops around Piedmont. Limocar Laurentides offers regular service from the Station Centrale d'Autobus de Montreal to most of the towns (tel 514/842-2281). Except for Tremblant - which costs a small fortune - rates for ski passes are around $30 a day in the decent areas, a few dollars more at weekends.
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