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The drive from Montreal to Hull on scenic Hwy 148 takes in a few riverside villages that used to be thriving logging towns. The first stop, about 130km west of Montreal, en route is MONTEBELLO , a picturesque village named after seigneur and Rebellion leader Louis-Joseph Papineau's estate. Today, the town is the Outaouais's star attraction thanks to a resort-like atmosphere that includes horseback riding, boating, upscale boutiques and the inimitable Chateau Montebello , 392 rue Notre Dame (tel 819/423-6341, www.chateaumontebello.com ; $175-240), the world's largest log building. Built by the Seigneury Club in 1930 in 90 days, the original three buildings are made up of 10,000 red-cedar logs. Today, it's a five-star hotel; even if you can't afford to stay, check out the six-hearthed fireplace and tour the photo gallery. The Chateau abuts the Site historique national du Manoir Papineau , 500 rue Notre Dame (mid-May to early Sept Wed-Sun 10am-noon & 1-5pm; early Sept to early Oct Sat & Sun 10am-noon & 1-5pm; free), Papineau's tranquil estate comprising his spectacular manor house, chapel and granary over a sizeable tract of land. The house contains a ground-floor ballroom, a turreted library tower and a gorgeous glass tea-room-cum-gazebo nearby that was formerly a three-storey greenhouse. The Papineau Memorial Chapel , a modest stone building (1855) nestled among tall pines and maple, is especially remarkable for being of Anglican, not Catholic, denomination - Papineau's son converted to Anglicanism after his father was refused a Catholic burial. Papineau senior and eleven other family members are buried here, and the Patriotes' flag is on display. Photographs and historical background on the estate and Papineau himself are displayed in the old Granary building. You won't find rock-bottom accommodation in Montebello. The most reasonable is Gite des 3D Chez Dodo , an unremarkable B&B at 493 rue Notre Dame (tel 819/423-5268; $40-60). If you can go slightly higher, Le Clos des Cedres , 227 rue St-Joseph (tel 819/423-1265; www.bbcanada.com/4148.html ; $40-60) has more character. Otherwise, try Motel Bel-Eau , 600-602 rue Notre Dame (tel 819/423-6504 or 1-888/666-0586; $60-80) or the attractive Motel l'Anse de la Lanterne , at 646 rue Notre Dame (tel 819/423-5280; $60-80), which has a good restaurant for dinner. Most restaurants are on the main drag; Le Pot au Feu , 489 rue Notre Dame, serves Italian and French for under $10; and the equally affordable Le Zouk , at no. 530, has a bistro menu. Information is available at 502 rue Notre Dame (late June to early Sept daily 10am-6pm; early Sept to late June Tues-Sun 9am-4pm). Voyageur buses drop passengers off twice daily down the street at no. 570. The only other stop of interest between Montreal and Hull is PLAISANCE , 15km onwards from Montebello and 30km east of Hull. Once the region's main lumber centre, the main draw today is the Reserve Faunique de Plaisance (late April to mid-Oct), a tiny provincial park made up of three presqu'iles covering 27 square kilometres replete with hiking trails, picnic areas and footbridges. A dull interpretive centre in the old presbytery on Hwy 148 tells the town's history (late June to early Sept daily 10am-6pm; $2.50; tel 819/772-3434). Camping is available at the Reserve Faunique (tel 819/427-6974 or 427-6900; $14.79 for a two-person site).
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