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Once the domain of various aboriginal groups, the Lower Laurentians were granted by Ville-Marie's governors to the colony's first seigneurs who, using a modified version of the feudal land system of the motherland, oversaw the development of the land by their tenants, or habitants . As the St Lawrence was the lifeline of the colony, these tenant farms were laid out perpendicular to the river in long, narrow rectangular seigneuries evoke life under the long regime. The first town of note in the region is ST-EUSTACHE , about forty-minutes' drive northwest of Montreal by Hwy 13 or 15 then Hwy 640. Alternatively, take bus #46 from Metro Henri-Bourassa in Montreal ($2.55; 1hr). It was here that the frustrations of the habitants with the British occupancy met a tragic end in the 1837 Rebellion. About thirty buildings survived the battle that put down the rebellious Patriotes led by Louis-Joseph Papineau. These are located along two narrow streets in Vieux St-Eustache. Most are simply marked with heritage signs, and inaccessible to the public, but the church , at 123 rue St-Louis, still bears the scars and offers free guided tours (Thurs-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm). The cross street, rue St-Eustache, has two sights worth visiting, the most impressive being the wedding-cake Manoir Globensky at no. 235 (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; $3), which doubles as the Musee de St-Eustache et des Patriotes and includes a thorough permanent exhibition on local history. Opposite, the eighteenth-century Moulin Legare , at no. 236 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; mid-May to mid-Oct also Sat & Sun 11am-5pm; $2), is the oldest water-powered flour mill in operation in Canada. For something different, drop by the slithery Exotarium , 846 chemin Fresniere, exit 8 Hwy 640 ouest (Feb-June & Sept-Dec Fri, Sat & Sun noon-5pm; July & Aug daily noon-5pm; $5.75), a breeding farm on the outskirts of town featuring cobras, pythons, crocodiles and lizards.
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