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East of Matane the highway hugs the shoreline, passing through increasingly rugged scenery where the forested hills of the interior push up against the fretted, rocky coast. A string of skimpy fishing villages breaks up this empty landscape - places like Capucins, with its fine headland setting, and Cap Chat , whose 76 towering wind turbines are visible for miles around. Of these, the 110m-tall Eolienne de Cap-Chat (late June to late Sept daily 8.30am-5pm; $6) is the tallest and most powerful vertical-axis wind tower in the world. Just 16km beyond Cap-Chat, unenticing SAINTE-ANNE-DES-MONTS sprawls along the coastline, its untidy appearance only offset by its relaxed atmosphere and its convenience - it's an easy place to break your journey before heading on to the cape, or inland to the Parc de la Gaspesie . The lone sight is the Explorama at 1 rue du Quai (early June and mid-Aug to mid-Oct daily 9am-6pm; late June to mid-Aug daily 9am-8pm; mid-Oct to early June Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 1-5pm; $8; www.centre-explorama.com ), a so-called marine and birdlife discovery centre on two floors. If you choose to visit, head straight to the aquarium downstairs where you can pick up living sea creatures such as starfish, sea cucumbers and scallops. For accommodation , the youth hostel Auberge internationale l'Echouerie , 295 1ere Avenue est (tel 763-1555; up to $40) has great views over the river and the Motel Manoir sur Mer , 475 1ere Avenue ouest (tel 763-7844; $40-60), has rooms backing onto the beach. For B&B accomodation, try Chez Marthe-Angele , at no. 268 1ere Avenue ouest (tel 763-2692; $40-60), or head for the unassuming Courant de la Mer , 3 rue Belvedere in nearby Tourelle (tel 763-5440 or 1-800/230-6709; $40-60).
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