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Heading east from Sainte-Anne-des-Monts towards the tip of the Gaspe Peninsula, the road often squeezes between the ocean and the sheer rock faces of the mountains, its twists and turns passing tumbling scree and picturesque coves. If you're hungry by the time you reach MARSOUI , a tiny fishing village 34km east of Ste-Anne, try a reasonably priced restaurant , La Vieille Table . One hundred percent French-Canadian, it started life in 1937 as the refectory of the defunct local lumber mill; today the interior remains functional, with simple hard benches beside six long tables. The daily specials are typically Quebecois - try the salmon or the meat and vegetable stew ( cipaille ), real bargains at around $10. The village also has a sheltered shingly beach . The view as you approach MONT-SAINT-PIERRE is majestic, the curving seashore and the swelling mountains together framing this little community set at the mouth of a wide river valley. Mont-Saint-Pierre is a low-key resort, dedicated to bathing and sea fishing, except during the hang-gliding festival at the end of July. During the rest of the summer you can fly in tandem for $100 with Carrefour Aventure (tel 797-5033 or 1-800/463-2210, www.carrefouraventure.com ) or Vol Biplace (tel 797-2896). There are several cheap-and-cheerful motels along rue Prudent-Cloutier: Try Chalets Auberge Bernatchez at no. 12 (tel 797-2733; up to $40), the Motel Mont-Saint-Pierre at no. 60 (tel 797-2202 or 1-800/797-2202; $40-60) or the Motel Restaurant au Delice at no. 100 (tel 797-2850 or 1-888/797-2955; $60-80). For camping , there's Du Pont on Hwy 132 (tel 797-2951; two-person sites $14.50; June-Sept) and a municipal campsite at 103 rue Pierre-Godfroie-Coulombe (tel 797-2250; six-person sites $13.04; June-Sept). There are a couple of good places to eat : Le Croissant d'Art , on the main thoroughfare, is an inexpensive artsy cafe ideal for light lunches, while Les Joyeux Naufrages (the French translation of Gilligan's Island ), 7 rte Pierre-Mercier, offers more substantial fare at equally affordable prices.
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