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Whether you come up from the heartlands of Quebec or cross over from New Brunswick on the Trans-Canada Highway via Cabano , RIVIERE-DU-LOUP is essentially the beginning of the Gaspe Peninsula. The town is a prosperous-looking place, whose hilly centre, complete with broad streets and handsome Victorian villas, owes its development to the timber industry and the coming of the railway in 1859, which established Riviere-du-Loup as a crossroads for traffic between the Maritimes, the peninsula and the rest of the province. Its significance as an administrative and commercial centre has grown accordingly and today it has a population of around 18,000. The river that gives the place its name crashes down a thirty-metre drop close to the centre, at the top of rue Frontenac, near Parc de la Croix Lumineuse , which offers a panoramic view of the mountains on the north shore. The town's waterfall is disappointing, however; although it generates a lot of noise and spray, even the specially built platform that crosses it fails to make the view enthralling. Similarly modest are the town's three museums. The central Musee du Bas-St-Laurent , 300 rue St-Pierre (daily: June-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct-May 1-5pm, Mon & Wed also 6-9pm; $5), combines ethnological displays of the region with historical exhibits and works of modern art by local artists. The Musee des Carillons , on the eastern edge of town at 393 rue Temiscouata (late June to early Sept daily 9am-8pm; Sept-Oct daily 9am-5pm; $5), is a unique collection of 250 bells of all types from around the world. The Musee de bateaux miniatures et legendes du Bas-St-Laurent , 80 boul Cartier (late June to early Sept daily 8.30am-9pm; May-June & early Sept to Oct daily 10am-8.30pm; $3.50), houses an interesting collection of model boats built by local craftspeople. If you're interested in the architectural heritage pick up the interpretive booklet ($1) from the tourist office , at 189 boul de l'Hotel-de-Ville, and stroll round the centre: although there's nothing special, it's a pleasant way to pass an hour. The most intriguing historical site in town is Le Manoir Fraser , 32 rue Fraser (late June to Oct daily 10am-5pm; $3.50), the home of Seigneur Fraser; instead of costumed guides, a computer-animated seigneur introduces you to his life and times. The red-brick manor house also has a fancy tearoom and garden. If you plan to take in the manor house, the miniature boat museum and the bells, pick up a discounted pass for $9 at one of the participating museums. Riviere-du-Loup is a good place for boat trips on the St Lawrence River. Beginning at around $40 per person per trip, these excursions are not cheap, but they are well organized and you may see beluga, minke and finback whales throughout the summer. All of the companies are by the marina at 200 rue Hayward - Croisieres AML (tel 867-3361 or 1-800/563-4643), specializes in whale-watching trips, while Exceptionelle Aventure (tel 862-7775), takes in the river's aquatic life in 12-person zodiacs - inflatable raft-type boats that get you very close to the whales. Alternatively, La Societe Duvetnor (tel 867-1660, www.duvetnor.com ; June-Oct), has daily cruises to various midstream sea-bird and mammal sanctuaries, with overnight stops offered ($20-185 per person; reservations required). A car ferry provides service to St-Simeon, on the north shore (April-Jan 2-5 trips daily; 65min; tel 862-5094, www.travrdlstsim.com ; passengers $10.40, cars $26.40).
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