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Ile du Havre-aux-Maisons ' smooth green landscapes contrast with the red cliffs of its southern shore. Crisscrossed by narrow country roads and littered with tiny straggling villages, this island is best known for a unique oral tradition. The Acadians that settled here post-deportation were so irate with their treatment they decided never to utter the word "king" ("roi" in French) again; over the years, they wound up dropping the letter "r" altogether from their language. The weird shapes of the coastal rocks around Dune-du-Sud are well worth a visit, as is the Fumoir d'Antan , 27 chemin du Quai (daily 9am-5pm; free tour), the last remaining traditional herring smokehouse on the islands. Down by the lagoon, the hodgepodge collection of artefacts at the Centre d'Interpretation de Havre-aux-Maisons (June to mid-Sept daily 9am-9pm) is on loan from local families and offers an excellent introduction to the local lore. Next door, Les Excursions de la Lagune takes off three times daily for a two-hour tour of the lagoon on a glass-bottom boat (tel 969-4550; $20) that's both highly entertaining and educational. Deserted twin beaches edge the hamlet islet of Pointe-aux-Lou ps north of here, across the sand spit and along Hwy 199. Should you want to stay , the Auberge la P'tite Baie , 187 Hwy 199 (tel 969-4073, www3.sympatico.ca/auberge.petitebaie ; $60-80), with its lovely rooms and sea vistas, is your best bet. For great seafood , try the restored convent Au Vieux Couvent , 292 Hwy 199, which also has a lively basement bar with regular live music acts - even without, the place gets packed every night.
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