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To the south of Ile du Cap-aux-Meules, Ile du Havre-Aubert has one significant community, HAVRE-AUBERT , that's edged by round sloping hills. It's the most attractive of the islands' communities, and its picturesque location and undoubtable charm attract a lot of visitors. It is situated around La Grave , a pebbly beach flanked by a boardwalk and wooden buildings once used by sailors and fishermen and now transformed into bars, cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and an art gallery for the island's new trade in tourists; for the best spot to by things from lampshades and fisheads to household decorations made of sand, try Les Artisans du Sable. On the beach the Aquarium (early June to mid-Aug daily 10am-6pm; mid-Aug to mid-Oct 10am-5pm; $5.50, www.ilesdelamadeleine.com/aquarium ) displays fish and crustaceans found in the waters around the island - you can handle the creatures thanks to open-access aquariums on the main floor and there's a small seal tidal pool out back. Overlooking La Grave, the Musee de la Mer (late June to late Aug daily Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-6pm; late Aug to late June Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 1-5pm, Sat & Sun 1-5pm; $4) has a series of displays on local fishing techniques and the history of the islands. Especially interesting is the exhibit focused on the more than 400 shipwrecks that have occurred just offshore. Set apart from Havre-Aubert, in the community of Bassin, the Site d'Autrefois (July-Aug Mon-Wed 10am-6pm, Thurs-Sun 10am-11pm; mid-late June & Sept 10am-6pm; $6) is a fanciful spot that tells the story of Madelinot life through life-sized mannequins of fishermen, boats and model houses. La Chevauche des Iles, also in Bassin, offers horseback riding tours of the island (tel 937-2368 or 937-5453; $25-40) while Centre Nautique de l'Istorlet, 100 chemin de l'Isorlet (tel 937-5266) rents out sea and surf kayaks , a fun way to explore the cliffs and caves of the coast, and also rents out cheap rooms (up to $40). You can stay on La Grave at Chez Charles Painchaud , 930 Hwy 199 (tel 937-2227; $40-60), or the seasonal Le Berceau des Iles , 701 chemin principal in Havre-Aubert (tel 937-5614; $40-125). Both are B&Bs and can arrange for pick-ups from the airport or ferry as well as organize winter and summer activities - they even rent cars. If you want to be right on the main drag, the forest-green ancestral house La Maison de Camille , 946 chemin de la Grave (tel 937-2516; $40-60) is a well-situated and affordable option, while Auberge Chez Denis a Francois , 404 chemin d'en Haut (tel 937-2371, www.ilesdelamadeleine.com/auberge ; $60-80) offers fine views of the strip. Restaurants are of good quality in Havre-Aubert: even if you don't stay at Auberge Chez Denis a Francois , you should definitely try the seafood - they even have seal on the menu. La Saline , 1009 Hwy 199 in La Grave, is open for delicious evening fare - there's also live music in the adjoining bar. The much more expensive La Maree Haute , 25 chemin des Fumoirs, is also only open at night and serves up some of Canada's finest seafood, including sea urchins and smoked seal. For chunky sandwiches and clam chowder served in bread, head for the marvelously atmospheric Cafe de la Grave in the old general store. Le Petit Mondrain on chemin de La Grave is popular with locals and possibly has the islands' cheapest seafood.
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