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The ferry from Souris, Prince Edward Island , docks in the middle of the archipelago, at Ile du Cap-aux-Meules , which boasts the Magdalen's largest community - CAP-AUX-MEULES , on the eastern shore. A useful base for exploring the neighbouring islands, the town is the islands' administrative and business centre and their least attractive enclave. However, just a couple of kilometres west of the village, there are fine views of the entire island chain from the Butte du Vent , the area's highest hill. Further west, on the other end of the island near the fishing port of Etang-du-Nord , you'll find some extravagant coastal rock formations and a port where kayaking tours take off. In the opposite direction, the main road skirts the southern tip of the islands' longest lagoon before heading on across the Ile du Havre-aux-Maisons. Reasonable accommodation options include the Motel Bellevue , 40 chemin Principal (tel 986-4477; $60-80); and the Auberge du Village , 205 chemin Principal (tel 986-3312; $60-80/$80-100). Alternatively, the large Chateau Madelinot , 323 Hwy 199 (tel 986-3695 or 1-800/661-4537; $100-125), offers fine sea views, great food and comfortable rooms, whilst Auberge Chez Sam , in Etang-du-Nord (tel 986-5780; $40-60), has more modest accommodation in an equally relaxing setting. Close to the harbour, La Jetee , 153 chemin Principale, has pub grub at good prices. For outstanding but pricier food , try the seafood at La Table des Roy , 1188 Hwy 199 (closed Mon) in La Verniere just west of Cap-aux-Meules; dinner will set you back over $50. The Petit Cafe in the Chateau Madelinot , 323 Hwy 199, is open all year, with a menu that ranges from hamburgers to lobsters; evening specials cost about $25; and La Factrie is a fun and inexpensive cafeteria-style lobster restaurant attached to a lobster- processing plant at 521 chemin Gros Cap.
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