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The area southeast of Riviere-du-Loup, along the Trans-Canada Highway towards New Brunswick, is saved from mediocrity by the graceful sweep of Lac Temiscouata , where a combination of lake, river, woods and hills is adorned by a dazzling display of wild flowers in spring. The Trans-Canada Highway offers glimpses of the lake, but it's Hwy 232 that tracks along the prettiest stretches, leaving the main road at the sprawling lakeside village of CABANO . Aside from Fort Ingall (June-Sept daily 9.30am-6pm; $6.50), a restored British fortification dating from 1839, there's little to do here except hang out by the lake. Built during a border dispute with the Americans, the fort was part of a series of schemes that strengthened the land link between the St Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy, protecting the area's timber resources. Abandoned in 1842, having seen no action, Ingall has been painstakingly reconstructed, its high stockade surrounding a squat wooden barracks, blockhouse and officers' quarters. Inside the officers' quarters are enjoyable displays on the background to the fort's construction, contemporaneous army life and local archeological finds. There's also a section on Archie Belaney, aka Grey Owl , the British conservationist turned native, who settled in the area in the 1920s . From Cabano, Hwy 232 follows the shore of the lake before snaking back to the St Lawrence at Rimouski - or you can take the more direct Hwy 293 from the lake's northern extremity to Trois-Pistoles . There are several campsites along the shores of Lac Temiscouata, the nearest to Cabano being the Temilac , 33 rue de la Plage, near the junction of Highway 232 and the TCH (tel 854-7660; $14; mid-May to Sept). For more comfortable accommodation , the campsite adjoins the unpretentious Hebergement Temilac (same number; $80-100). Alternatively, you could try the Motel Royal , 19 rue St-Louis (tel 854-2307; $40-60), a decent and inexpensive place to stay. For food , Le Quai des Brumes , at 140 rue Commercial, is a cheerful place with a terrace; Auberge de la Gare , 5 rue de la Gare, specializes in crepes and pasta and offers B&B accommodation upstairs (tel 845-9315 or 1-888/463-4273; $40-60).
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