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Heading east from Trois-Pistoles, Hwy 132 crosses a comparatively tedious landscape of fertile agricultural land, until it reaches the rocky wooded hummocks of the shoreline's Parc du Bic . A naturalists' paradise whose headlands push up tight against the river, it's possible to see herds of grey seals, especially at dusk. The park has three short hiking trails, a beach, a visitors' centre (mid-June to Sept daily 10am-5pm; free) and a campsite , Camping Bic (tel 736-4711; $16 a pitch plus $4.35 administration charge; early June to early Sept). From late June to early September, shuttle buses depart regularly from the visitors' centre heading up to the highest peak, Pic Champlain ($5 return trip), and around the park (2hr; $14). You can also view the park from a sea kayak from Rivi-Air Aventure (tel 736-5252; $30-60 per person). Just beyond the park along Hwy 132, the elongated village of BIC , perched on a low ridge above its snout-shaped harbour, is a handsome medley of old and modern architectures. Samuel de Champlain named the place Pic (for peak), but the "P" morphed into a "B" instead. The Auberge du Mange Grenouille , 148 rue Ste-Cecile (tel 736-5656; $40-60; summer only), has a superb restaurant (reservations advised) and attractively furnished double rooms . Aux Cormorants is a B&B nestled along Pointe des Anglais facing onto the river (tel 736-8113; $40-60). The bakery , Folles Farines , at 113 rue St-Jean Baptiste, has a wicked selection of tasty breads, croissants and thin-crust pizzas. Up the hill and facing the handsome church, Chez Saint-Pierre is a sunny bistro with an imaginative menu and a terrace overlooking the town's rooftops (open seven days a week in summer; weekends only rest of year).
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