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Just to the west of New Richmond, Hwy 299 runs north along the banks of the Cascapedia towards the Parc de la Gaspesie , while the coastal Hwy 132 continues on to the popular bayside resort of CARLETON , where the mountains of the interior return to dominate the landscape. Founded in 1756 by Acadian refugees, Carleton is an unassuming little place that stands back from the sea behind a broad lagoon, linked to the narrow coastal strip by a couple of long causeways. The town has a bird sanctuary - a favourite haunt of wading species like the sandpiper and plover - and several accessible bathing beaches where you can rent kayaks (tel 364-7802). But what makes the place special is the contrast between the coastal flatlands and the backdrop of wooded hills that rise up behind the town. At 582m, Mont Saint-Joseph is the highest of these and is presided over by the Oratoire Notre Dame-du-Mont-Saint-Joseph , a disappointing church that incorporates the walls of a stone chapel built on the site in 1935. A three-kilometre maze of steep footpaths slip past streams and waterfalls before they reach the summit. You can also take the less adventurous option and drive up. You must pay ($4) to see the splendid panoramic views over the bay and across to New Brunswick. Carleton is a good place to stay overnight and, while you're here, the hilly Miguasha Peninsula , some 20km to the west off Hwy 132, makes a pleasant excursion. Famous for its fossils, this tiny peninsula is home to the Parc de Miguasha , where the cream of the fossil crop is displayed at the combined research centre and museum (daily: June to early Sept 9am-6pm; Sept to mid-Oct 9am-5pm; free). Frequent and free guided tours take in the museum, the research area and a walk along the beach and cliffs. About 800m from the museum is the jetty for the little car ferry (late June to early Sept hourly 7.30am-7.30pm; 20min; $12 one-way for driver and car, $1 per additional passenger) that crosses over to Dalhousie in New Brunswick, a short cut that avoids the tip of the Baie des Chaleurs. Carleton's many motels line the main street, boul Perron. The cheaper choices include: Auberge la Visite Surprise , no. 527 (tel 364-6553 or 1-800/463-7740; $40-60); L'Abri , no. 360 (tel 364-7001 or 1-800/827-7001; $60-80); and Manoir Belle Plage , no. 474 (tel 364-3388 or 1-800/463-0780; $40-60). A B&B , Les Leblanc , is at no. 346 (tel 364-7601; $40-60). The town has a well-situated campsite , Camping Carleton , on the causeway, Banc de Larocque (tel 364-3992; sites from $19; mid-June to Aug). Le Bleu Marine , 203 rte du Quai, offers affordable lunchtime menus overlooking the beach, while more substantial seafood meals are available at Restaurant le Heron , at no. 561 (where the bus stops), and the expensive but superb La Maison Monti , at 840 boul Perron. If you're heading off to the Parc de Miguasha, pack up a picnic lunch at the bakery La Mie Veritable , 578 boul Perron.
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