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One of the most charming places in Ontario, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE , 26km downstream from the Falls, boasts lines of elegant clapboard houses surrounded by well-kept gardens, all spread along tree-lined streets. The town, much of which dates from the early nineteenth century, was originally known as Newark and became the first capital of Upper Canada in 1792. But four years later it lost this distinction to York (Toronto) because of its proximity to the frontier - a wise decision, for the Americans crossed the river and destroyed Niagara-on-the-Lake in 1813. The town was rebuilt (and renamed) immediately afterwards, and has managed to avoid all but the most sympathetic of modifications ever since. This period charm attracts a few too many day-trippers (and souvenir shops) for the town's own good, but the crowds are rarely oppressive, except on weekends in July and August. The charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake lies in the whole rather than in any particular sight, but Queen Street , the short main drag, does boast a pretty clock tower and the old Apothecary shop (mid-May to Aug daily noon-6pm; free), worth a peep for its beautifully carved walnut and butternut cabinets, crystal gasoliers and porcelain jars. The town's finest building is, however, the church of St Andrews , at Simcoe and Gage streets, a splendid illustration of the Greek Revival style dating to the 1830s. The church has a beautifully proportioned portico and the interior retains the original high pulpit and box pews. Also of some interest is the Niagara Historical Museum , 43 Castlereagh St (Jan & Feb Sat & Sun 1-5pm; March, April, Nov & Dec daily 1-5pm; May-Oct daily 10am-5pm; $3), founded in 1895 and the repository for over 20,000 artefacts of local significance, with the Loyalists being particularly well-represented. More importantly, Niagara-on-the-Lake is also home to one of Canada's more acclaimed theatrical seasons, the Shaw Festival (April to early Nov), featuring the work of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. There are three main theatres and tickets cost between $34 and $70 - half that for Rush seats which are, when they're on offer, available from 9am on the day of the performance. Contact the Shaw Festival box office (tel 905/468-2172 or 1-800/511-SHAW, fax 905/468-3804, www.shawfest.sympatico.ca ) for further details.
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