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Some 130km from the Pukaskwa turning, Hwy 17 passes close to ROSSPORT , a picture-perfect village draped around a tiny, sheltered bay. Originally a Hudson's Bay Company trading post, the settlement prospered as a fishing port until the 1960s, when a combination of overfishing and a sea-lamprey attack on the lake trout led to the industry's decline. The railway station was closed down too and today Rossport is the quietest of villages and one that makes for a perfect overnight stay on the long trek north. With more time, Rossport Island Cruises (tel 807/767-3006 or 1-800/876-2296) offers splendid boat trips out across the steel-grey waters of Lake Superior - anything from a quick zip round the wooded islets of the bay to extended expeditions. Alternatively, Superior Outfitters (tel 807/824-3314) rents canoes and kayaks on a daily or weekly basis, and gives tuition. As for accommodation , the tiny Rossport Inn (tel 807/824-3213, fax 824-3217; rooms $60-80, cabins $40-60), whose mock-Tudor flourishes date from the 1880s, occupies a fine lakeside setting. It has seven bedrooms in the main house and ten wooden cabins, with double beds, in the garden. The inn has a good restaurant, but the place to eat is the Serendipity Cafe (tel 807/824-2890; closes 7-8pm), a surprisingly sophisticated spot with feta cheese, rocket salad, smoked salmon and the like - all at reasonable prices. Lastly, there are two fine campsites in the woods by the lake in Rainbow Falls Provincial Park (tel 807/824-2298; $14-18; late May to early Sept), just 7km east of Rossport off Hwy 17.
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