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Some 100km north of Cobalt, Hwy 11 passes over the Arctic Watershed , or Height of Land, a slight elevation in the Canadian Shield that divides Ontario's water flow. To the north, all water flows to James and Hudson bays, and to the south it flows to the Great Lakes and the St Lawrence. Beyond, it's a tedious haul up Hwy 11 to COCHRANE , 280km from Temagami, a modest little place that grew up as a repair and turntable station for the railroad companies serving the far north. Most of the workshops have closed down, but this is still the departure point for Ontario Northland railway's Little Bear and Polar Bear Express trains , which venture north beyond the road network to Moosonee, on James Bay. The popularity of the express train sustains several modest motels in Cochrane: the Chimo (tel 705/272-6555, fax 272-5666; $40-60) is as good as any, and there's also the more comfortable Station Inn , by the train station at 200 Railway St (tel 705/272-3500 or 1-800/265-2356, fax 705/272-5713, www.ontc.on.ca ; $60-80). For food , JR Ranch BBQ , 63 3rd Ave, is good for meaty North American meals.
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