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The 500-kilometre-long Algoma Central Railway (ACR) was constructed in 1901 to link the Soo's timber plants with the forests of the interior. It was first used for recreational purposes by the Group of Seven , who shunted up and down the track in a converted boxcar, stopping to paint whenever the mood took them. The ACR's timber days are long gone, but today the railway offers one of Ontario's finest excursions, with the train snaking through a wonderfully wild wilderness of deep ravines, secluded lakes and plunging gorges. To see it all, sit on the left-hand side - otherwise you'll end up looking at an awful lot of rock. There are three tours to choose from and all depart from the Algoma Central Railway Terminal, in downtown Soo, at 129 Bay St and Dennis (tel 705/946-7300 or 1-800/242-9287; www.agawacanyontourtrain.com ). The Agawa Canyon Tour Train takes the whole day to cover the first 200km of track and back (June to mid-Oct departs 8am, returns 5pm; June to early Sept $54, early Sept to mid-Oct $66). Advance reservations are strongly advised and are pretty much essential in the autumn, when the leaves turn. A two-hour stop within the canyon's 180-metre-high walls allows for a lunch break and a wander around the well-marked nature trails, which include a lookout post from where the rail line appears as a thin silver thread far below. Unless you are properly equipped don't miss the train back - the canyon gets very cold at night, even during the summer, and the flies are merciless. During the winter when the lakes are frozen and the trees are bent low with ice, the Snow Train (Jan to mid-March on Sat, plus Sun in Feb; departs 8am, returns 4.20pm; $54) travels a little further north. It passes right through the canyon to the dramatic exit, where the walls are only 15m apart, before returning to the Soo. The third and longest trip is the Tour of the Line (mid-May to mid-Oct Wed & Fri-Sun departs 9.20am, arrives 7pm; mid-Oct to mid-May Fri-Sun departs 9am, arrives 6.40pm; $140 return, excluding accommodation), a return trip that takes two days with an overnight stay in Hearst, the ACR's northern terminus. This is arguably the weakest of the three excursions as the scenery north of the canyon is dreary pine forest and small-town Hearst is hardly riveting. Note also that passengers have to arrange their own accommodation in Hearst - ring the Hearst Chamber of Commerce (tel 1-800/655-5769) well ahead of time for details of availability; or contact the Companion Hotel , 930 Front St, Hearst (tel 705/362-4304 or 1-888/468-9888, fax 705/372-1631; $60-80), direct. In addition to these well-publicized tourist jaunts, the ACR runs a regular passenger train from the Soo to Hearst every day from mid-May to mid-October - though regular is perhaps stretching the point. Passengers on this train, which is commonly called the "moose meat special" on account of its popularity with hunters and trappers, get off and on at various points along the line and pay 23c per kilometre for the distance travelled. This service enables serious hikers to step out into the great unknown comforted that they can always flag down the next train up. Schedule details are available from the ACR, who also have information about renting boxcars and on the several outback lodges that dot the line.
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