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Perched on the limestone bluff of Parliament Hill, overlooking the Ottawa River, Canada's Parliament Buildings have, with their pointed windows and overweening clock tower, a distinctly ecclesiastical air - though that certainly didn't overawe the original workmen, who urinated on the copper roof to speed up the oxidization process. Comprising a trio of sturdy neo-Gothic structures, the complex was begun in 1859 after the land was purchased from the British army, who had plonked a barracks here during the construction of the Rideau Canal. Centre Block (guided tours: mid-May to Aug Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am-4.30pm; Sept to mid-May daily 9am-3.30pm; free), home of the Senate and the House of Commons, dominates proceedings, though it is actually a replacement for the original building, which was destroyed by fire in 1916. This second structure was supposed to be the same as its predecessor, but it ended up about twice the size. The Peace Tower , rising from the middle of the facade, was added in 1927 as a memorial to Canadians who served in World War I - the floor is paved with stone brought from the battlefields of Europe. Highlights of the guided tour include a quick gambol round the House of Commons , where the Speaker's chair is made of English oak from Westminster Hall and from Nelson's ship Victory , and the red-carpeted Senate with its murals of scenes from World War I surmounted by a beautiful gilded ceiling. At the back of the Centre Block is the Library , the only part of the building to have survived the fire; the circular design and the richly carved wooden galleries make this the most charming part of the building. The debates in both the House of Commons and the Senate are open to the public, who can observe proceedings from the visitors' galleries - a white light at the top of the Peace Tower indicates when Parliament is in session. Passes are required and are issued by security at the main Peace Tower entrance. For information about Senate debates, call 992-4791. For the House of Commons call 992-4793, which is also the number to call for details of Parliament's liveliest debate, held during Question Period , when the Opposition interrogates the Prime Minister. Flanking Centre Block are West Block (no public access) and East Block (July & Aug daily 10am-5pm; free), where the guided tour pops into four Confederation-era rooms: the original Governor General's office, the offices of Sir John A. Macdonald and Sir George Etienne Cartier, and the Privy Council Chamber. Costumed guides provide the history. The manicured lawns surrounding the Parliament Buildings are dotted with statues of the great and the good with two of the more interesting occupying a tiny hillock just to the west of Centre Block. Here, Queen Victoria has been stuck on a plinth guarded by a lion and offered laurels from below, whilst Lester Pearson lounges in an armchair, the epitome of the self-confident statesman. Round the back of Centre Block, there are pleasant views across the Ottawa River to Hull and of the Library's handsome design. Two events pull the tourist crowds onto Parliament Hill, beginning with the Changing of the Guard when the Governor General's Foot Guards and Grenadier Guards march onto the Hill dressed in full ceremonial uniform - bright-red tunics and bearskins (late June to late Aug daily between 9.30am and 10am). The second is a free summer-evening sound and light show , illustrating Canada's history (June to early Sept French and English performances nightly; they alternate which goes first). In summer, a white Infotent goes up in front of West Block and has tickets for all the tours and information on what's going on.
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