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The eastern end of the Sparks Street Mall empties into the triangular Confederation Square , a breezy open space dominated by the magnificent National War Memorial , in which a soaring stone arch is surmounted by representations of liberty and peace. Down below, a swirling, finely executed bronze of 1926 depicts returning service men and women passing through the arch - from war to peace - and manages to convey both their exultation and sorrow. On the east side of the square is the complex of low concrete buildings that houses the National Arts Centre and this steps down to the Rideau Canal , which in winter becomes the world's longest skating rink, with hot chocolate and muffin stands providing sustenance for the skaters. Steps away, directly below Parliament Hill, the canal joins the Ottawa River by means of a flight of locks , beside which is the Bytown Museum (April-Nov Mon & Wed-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; $5), Ottawa's oldest building, where military supplies were stored during the construction of the canal. Here, a short video display explains the history of the waterway, while the rest of the museum features assorted Ottawan memorabilia, including some of Colonel By's belongings, and temporary exhibitions. During the summer, canal boat trips leave from the top of the locks, river trips from the bottom. There are several operators, but Paul's Boat Lines (tel 225-6781) is as good as any, charging $12 for an hour-long canal cruise, $14 for the river. There are departures every couple of hours or so. From the east side of the locks, steps lead up to the Chateau Laurier Hotel and the adjacent Canadian Museum of Contemporary Photography (May-Aug Mon, Tues & Fri-Sun 11am-5pm, Wed 4-8pm, Thurs 11am-8pm; Sept-April Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-5pm, Thurs 11am-8pm; donation). The collection numbers around 160,000 photographs, which are used for research as well as being displayed in changing exhibitions. Across the street rise the slender columns of the old railway station, now recycled as a Conference Centre .
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